Tag Archives | Marquesas


Sailors and tattoos

Tattoos and sailors have gone together since explorers ships first encountered highly decorated residents of Pacific islands in the late 1700s, and brought the designs back home with them: marks of their journey and exotic encounters. the Marquesas are recognized as being among the oldest homes of this tradition. Traditionally, they were a mark of […]


Birthday Season

We recently had birthday season on Totem: all three of the children’s birthdays fall within a two-week span. It was been really fun to have lots of other kids boats around to share their special days. Each child is granted provisional king/queen for a day status on their birthday . What will we eat? What […]


Morning hike into Hatiheiu

Baguettes cravings called, so it was time to hike back to Hatiheiu again. The round trip is about 3 hours: following switchbacks straight up to a ridge, then straight back down again into the next bay. As often is the case, the journey was the adventure. We passed quite a few of the diminutive Marquesan […]


Field trip into Hatiheiu

After growing fat and sassy for several days on the Anaho beach, I craved exercise and hiked with Anne (Oso) over the ridge to the town on the other side. We scouted the magazin (general store), scared off a few goats from the main thoroughfare, and wandered through the tiki statues at the waterfront. The […]


Why rush through paradise? Anaho Bay

I am sharing my morning tea in the cockpit with a sea turtle, who pokes his head up now and again (making sure I haven’t moved?). A few spotted rays cruise by the boat as the sun finally peeks over the top of the mountains. * quick callout to Mum who has her birthday today! […]



This past week, we’ve shared an anchorage with manta rays. These gentle giants have wingspans averaging around seven feet. Filter feeders without teeth, they swoop in graceful arcs, hoovering up the rich micro/macroscopic marine life that fills the water right now. We’ve been out to swim with them on a number of days. I cannot […]

Oh, the baguettes…oh, the fruit…

Anyone who knows me, knows I’m pretty food obsessed…although there is still much to learn and experience, my first impressions here are centered around things to eat. A culinary introduction to the Marquesas is all about the fruit and baguettes. I wondered how hard it would be to break my tortilla habit from Mexico, but […]

Soaking up the beauty

Since our landfall was in the moonlight, we didn't fully appreciate the drama of the landscape until we awoke in the morning. It's stunning. Incredibly rugged, the islands lack the fringing reefs that protect so much of the rest of the South Pacific. Clouds stick to the top of knife-edge mountains like cotton candy; the […]

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