Tag Archives | Mexico

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Totem’s Coppercoat application

Coppercoating Totem’s hull was a thrilling prospect, but pressure to do the application correctly gave me more anxiety any boat project in memory. The product features are substantial: a strong environmental case (nothing toxic ends up in the water, as with conventional antifouling paints), and solid financial value (the epoxy bottom should last for many […]

La Cruz provisioning

Cruiser karma: alive and well in La Cruz

Nine years ago this month, Totem rocked at anchor in this exact curve of coastline on the north side of Banderas Bay where we find ourselves today. We basked in the same sunrise over the sierras to the east, were enchanted by the same distant fireworks from Puerto Vallarta resorts in the evening, and maybe […]

david on the bow

Crewing on Totem

For the 800 mile run from Puerto Peñasco to Puerto Vallarta, two coaching clients responded to our spontaneous offer for sharing the sail; Sam shares their experience in this guest post. David read the email before I did. And he’d already made up his mind not to go when he came upstairs to tell me. “It’s […]

Tide pool exploring near San Evaristo, 2009

Then and now: sailing Baja nine years later

What’s your favorite place? We’ve heard this question a lot lately. Jamie’s current answer to the “best place” question is that he has 100 top ten favorites. His point (aside from the impossibility of picking just one) is that there’s context needed. Some places are favorites for the delicious food. Others are unforgettable for their underwater […]

At anchor before playa de Balandra, Mexico

Circumnavigation, check! What’s next?

Motoring north from La Paz, parched mountains reach up on Totem’s starboard side along a gently winding channel. On the far side of a wide blue bay bask the low desert hills of southern Baja. Tonight we’ll anchor in a quiet bay where the water turns to clear turquoise near shore, and we scan the […]

birds on the bow at sunset

Northbound to Mexico: lessons from the country-per-day plan

The Pacific side of Panama felt palpably different even before the channel markers switched near the continental divide, green buoys replacing red on Totem’s starboard side. It was partly an earthy smell of the hot wind blowing through the Gaillard cut. A changed quality in the light, maybe, on the far side of sawtooth mountains […]

dolphins sea of cortez

What’s your favorite cruising destination?

With 71% of our planet covered by oceans, there is no shortage of places to explore by boat. So when asked what we thought were the world’s most exotic sailing location, well, I had to wonder: how could we possibly choose just one from among our favorites? I asked the question on Totem’s facebook page and […]

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More action in La Cruz

Mexican marine toting a big gun, watching Alchemy coming in from racing in the Governor’s Cup (opening race of the MEXORC series, here in Banderas Bay). Some seriously enhanced security in the marina and in town today- President Felipe Calderon made an appearance. Lots of helicoptering and large automatic weapons being bandied about.

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Barra de Navidad

I had a slow day in Barra de Navidad. It wasn’t supposed to be slow, but sometimes that’s not in my hands. Laundry was dropped with a family in town for pickup at 1. It wasn’t ready- no problem. I had the perfect excuse to be alone, without a “to do” list, for a couple […]

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Provisioning adventures

Getting food to our home is a little more complicated than it used to be. Frutas y verduras, Zihuatanejo First, of course, the obvious- we don’t have a car. We get everywhere on foot, sometimes aided by buses, on rare occasions by a ride in a taxi or a friend’s car. But consider the quantity […]

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