10 reasons to love cruising in Madagascar

Madagascar might just be the perfect mix of different things we find to love in cruising destinations. Most boats crossing the Indian Ocean stop in, unless they are on a delivery or a schedule to get around the world; I don’t need to convince any cruisers to make it a destination. But for those contemplating cruising in […]

Madagascar’s stunning Barren Islands

South of Madagascar’s Cap St Andre is a sprinkling of islands, around 15 nautical miles off the coast. They’re aptly called the Barren Islands: some are no more than long spits of sand, just a couple of meters above sea level, and most have no more than thin sandy soil. I sat down today with the […]

Passage hindsight: sailing from Madagascar to South Africa

Sailing from Madagascar to South Africa is technically challenging. The Mozambique Channel separating them is famously dangerous, in particular for the effect of gales blowing up from the Southern Ocean against the south-setting Agulhas current. For a reference point that may translate better to sailors in North America, I’m told it’s comparable to experiencing a […]

Sailing south from Nosy Be, Madagascar

Sailing south from Nosy Be, we take a path with longer days and fewer stops so we can reach a beautiful destination, Moromba Bay, with time to linger before pressing on to Mahajanga. The first anchorage on the way is Nosy Iranja: we’d been looking forward to a swim in what we’re told is the last […]

Scenes from Mahajanga, Madagascar

Mahajanga was an unexpectedly interesting stop – as was the Katsepy anchorage adjacent. There’s a lot more I wanted to share than I could fit into the last post: it’s a little random. Humor me. Climbing over the seawall from our beach landing to do last-minute provisions, Ty and I accidentally crashed a road race. Ty […]

The not so perilous port of Mahajanga, Madagascar

Don’t go to Mahajanga, they said. It’s dangerous, they said. The coconut telegraph passes information from one cruiser to the next, and typically it’s useful data about destinations. It’s also good at propagating messages with half-truths or misinformation. In Madagascar, that message is: it’s a bad idea to go to Mahajanga – also known as […]

Uniquely Madagascar: sailing to Nosy Mitsio

Madagascar is full of experiences that that impress upon us just how unique this land is. This is about the wildlife, of course: that something like 90% of flora and fauna are endemic, that is, they are unique to Madagascar. But it’s also about the everyday life of people we encounter, and how different that […]

Eating through Madagascar

Food is so much more than sustenance, and experiencing a country and culture through food is one of the things I most look forward to in a new place. It gives me pieces of a place to take with us (I think there’s at least one dish or condiment we’ve added to the Totem repertoire from […]

Hello Madagascar!

Madagascar! I still can’t believe we’re here and have needed to repeat it. It’s been a week since we made landfall. We might have kinda sorta not quite checked in right away, which you really should do, as failure can result in some unpleasantness…fines, expulsion, etc. But we hoped the angle a bit farther north […]