Boat show bound: see you in Annapolis!

Love Pam Wall and our two-day Cruising Women masterclass! The Annapolis boat show gathers the found family of the cruising community. Connected through shared goals and experiences, we relish the opportunity to play with like-minded souls without the need to justify or explain ourselves. Fundamental goals and shared values are difficult for our land-linked family […]

Cruising relationships are different

Group of adults hanging out in a small swimming pool

Familiar names come into focus on the hulls of sailboats as Jamie and I walk along the gravelly hardstand rows. It’s like seeing old friends after the space of time and distance; variations in the gap bring recollections for some in a heartbeat, others in just a few beats more. Remarkably, among the 70-odd cruising […]

Connecting with the tribe in Annapolis

Large group photo in restaurant

“Drink this. Now.” The Annapolis Boat Show was in full swing, but my friend Nica wasn’t handing me one of Pusser’s famous Painkillers with her demand. She had a higher agenda! Mother nature pulled out the stops during the show, putting on an October demo of peak summer weather in the Chesapeake. Nica and I […]

Then and now: sailing Baja nine years later

What’s your favorite place? We’ve heard this question a lot lately. Jamie’s current answer to the “best place” question is that he has 100 top ten favorites. His point (aside from the impossibility of picking just one) is that there’s context needed. Some places are favorites for the delicious food. Others are unforgettable for their underwater […]

Guests on a boat: how our friends nailed it

happy sailors in Panama

“Guests, like fish, begin to smell after three days.” When Benjamin Franklin said this, he wasn’t thinking about fitting two families – a total of nine adult-sized humans  – into a 47’ boat that technically sleeps six, for ten days. So why did things go so well when our friends visited Totem in Panama a […]

Mochilas and memories in Colombia

girl holding a toucan

Posts about why Colombia is a great place to visit and a practical orientation to Colombia for cruisers were written to help others with decisions about Caribbean routing and destinations. But Colombia was more than that for us, and I blog for my family record as much as to help cruisers in our wake. Captured […]

Passage notes: westbound across the Caribbean

Sailing wing and wing

Totem is sailing toward sunsets again. Turning towards the Dutch Antilles from Martinique was more westbound than south. This passage brought back more than a familiar angle for sunrises and moonsets: it’s also… downwind sailing for the first time in 18 months first passage with more than one night at sea in 18 months a nearly full […]

Looking west from Martinique

Drone view St Anne to Marin Martinique

When we look back on the Caribbean, Martinique will feature among the best memories—and not just because of the pâté, brie, and baguettes. A stop to provision and facilitate a trip to Puerto Rico for Jamie stretched out and filled with beaches and swimming, exploring the history and charm of this lush island, Thanksgiving celebrations […]

A cruiser’s Thanksgiving: twists on tradition

Harvest festivals are cross-cultural and found all over the world, but that held on the 4th Thursday of every November is uniquely American. Every family grows up with a variant, but there are themes — some make the leap to cruising, and others don’t. Preparations for a celebration! At home I’d probably have planned this […]

Folk art and daydreams from Bequia

Sailing upwind in the Caribbean

Cruisers merrily claim they “go where the wind blows.” It’s sort of true, but implies a more laissez-faire approach than migration patterns belie. On the day we departed – just as hurricane season is waning – we saw more boats sailing north and away from Grenada with us than we saw during entire stretch from […]