Bali memories

I’m still absorbing and processing the outrageous, unforgettable experience of traveling up into the river into a national park, looking into the eyes of our next-of-kin: the awesome “people (orang) of the forest (hutan)”, the endangered orangutans. While I organize thoughts… there are still parting memories of Bali I have to share. Staying through another […]

Kiss goodbye to Bali

When our expectations of a quick (<1 week) visa extension turned into a three weeks, it was hard not to be frustrated. Yet silver linings are everywhere: a chance to go out to Pulau Menjangan was just the first.The very best part of our delay by far was the chance to catch up with an […]

A breather, and a lesson in navigation, on Pulau Menjangan

We got tired of waiting in Lovina for our visas to be ready. After nearly two weeks in one anchorage, it was time for a break. The prospect of an old friend from home visiting Bali lifted our concern about being ready to run the moment our visa extensions were completed- we’ll stick around at […]

Beautiful Bali

I’m afraid I may have been complaining about Bali too much. The traffic in the south end of the island, the development in/around Ubud, the beach hawkers. Wow, not fair…because really, Bali is magical. Why? Well, it’s incredibly beautiful. The archtypical terraced rice paddies are breathtaking. My pictures all fall very, very short of how lovely […]

Lovina: juggling hawkers while we play the waiting game

Gili Air to Lovina was a pleasant day trip. Just point the boat towards Gunung Agung, and go! We were cheated by the wind and had to motor, again, although since seasonal breezes are now generally from behind us we had really hoped to sail. But we needed to get there to renew our visas […]

It’s not always rosy

I tend to write about the positive aspects of our life. It’s not a concerted effort to avoid the icky parts; it’s simply not my preference to dwell on them. Well, consider yourself warned, because is a departure. Totem just had “one of those” days. This is… not one of those days. No, this was […]

You can go home again (Bali edition)

Even at one o’clock in the morning, stepping off the plane in Bali is like walking into a wall of warm humid air. It takes some adjustment, but at the same time, it felt as though every pore of my skin opened up and said “thank you.” Other than the fact that my sweet husband […]

Meanwhile, in Bali

We had a crazy fast run from Gili Air down to Bali. The current here really rips, and when you’re headed south, it’s your friend. Both Jamie and I tried to take pictures of the water’s surface to illustrate the big rip lines, but they are entirely undramatic when captured with a camera… just take […]