Search results for "louisiades"


Making friends in the Louisiades: learning Misima dialect

Connecting with people in the places we visit, learning about our similarities and differences, is something I truly enjoy. Demonstrating interest by knowing some of their language is a great way to start. This is complicated by the vast number of languages we faced, first in Papua New Guinea and now here in Indonesia. Tok […]


Trading in the Louisiades: what will you get?

What you should bring to trade was covered in the last post; We knew we’d do a lot of trading, but we weren’t entirely clear on either side of the equation. Here’s a rundown of some of the things we traded for during our weeks in the Milne Bay Province of Papua New Guinea. Lots […]


Trading in the Louisiades: what to bring

We knew trading would be part of the experience of cruising in Papua New Guinea, but failed to appreciate just how much. For trading in the Louisiades, here’s what I would like to have seen gathered in one place before we left. This is based on our admittedly limited experience, through the western islands in […]

Routing beyond the Louisiades

Our path through Papua New Guinea so far has been nothing like we expected, and that's just fine. Yet another lesson that cruising "plans" are made to be changed, and that weather always wins! Our route through the western end of the Louisiades happened spontaneously. I was disappointed not to start at the eastern end […]


Panasia Island: trading 101 in our gateway to the Louisiades

We extended our tiptoe into Papua New Guinea by sailing to Panasia island at the western end of the Louisiades. We were wary of crossing Jomard Entrance after the seas we experienced last week, but had no problem, and picked up three very nice pelagic fish on handlines for our trouble. Panasia is where the […]


Gifts that give a little more

Among the lessons cruising has taught me: that a frugal life brings returns in personal happiness, and that seeking simplicity results not in deprivation but in a feeling of abundance. Living in our floating Tiny Home, “stuff” is the enemy. Still… once the tryptophan effect wears off after Thanksgiving, there’s an undeniable pull for a lot […]


There’s this boat: Nalukai

Every now and then I write about a boat that strikes us. They represent a spectrum of styles (the classic plastic Mary Powell; the rocket boat Relapse; the traditional teak Kalalau; bamboo schooner Coracle) but all have a common thread: they probably aren’t the boats you’ll see promoted at a boat show or glossy mag, […]


Mermaids are real: getting the kids swimming

Sitting around a worn wooden table in the open side of a thatch-roofed hut, looking out over the sparkling water of a lagoon in PNG’s Hermit Islands, we listened to tales of mermaids. Like the school teacher in the Louisiades, the subsistence fishermen we met here believed fervently in the (red-skinned, black-haired) sirens that hid […]


Highlights from 2,500 days of cruising

Today marks the 2,500th day since we sailed Totem out of Puget Sound; soon we’ll start our eighth year as cruisers. It still feels amazing, and I still pinch myself to make sure it’s not a dream. There are plenty of days that aren’t all sunshine or rainbows (like much of this last passage, which was a wet, boisterous, […]


A year in review: from Oz to mainland SE Asia

We recently crossed the one-year mark since departing Australia, and a relatively stationary period in our floating life. It was a banner year and prompted some reflection I posted a few stats on our Facebook page… here’s an expansion we mulled today, as we headed north up the west coast of the Malay peninsula. Nautical […]

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