Archive | May, 2013


Sun protection for pasty white cruisers

Scoping boobies on Isla Isabel Sun protection- with sunscreen, sun protective clothing, and more- is something we take pretty seriously on Totem. When I was a teenager, my mother was diagnosed with malignant melanoma. My uncle (her brother) died from metastasized skin cancer. Jamie’s family has a history of skin carcinomas, so you could say […]


The Sailing Podcast interviews Totem

Just recently, Jamie and I spent a really nice hour chatting with David Anderson of The Sailing Podcast. He and his wife Carina have a great series of interviews for sailors. David had been in touch with us a while back, but took months for us to be parked in a place with dependable internet […]


A breather, and a lesson in navigation, on Pulau Menjangan

We got tired of waiting in Lovina for our visas to be ready. After nearly two weeks in one anchorage, it was time for a break. The prospect of an old friend from home visiting Bali lifted our concern about being ready to run the moment our visa extensions were completed- we’ll stick around at […]


Managing Seasickness on Totem

One of my first dates with Jamie was an offshore race in New England. It started in the evening off Long Island Sound, did a big triangle into the Atlantic overnight, up into Narragansett Bay and then finished off the coast of Connecticut in the morning. Throwing up when things got lumpy off the back […]


Beautiful Bali

I’m afraid I may have been complaining about Bali too much. The traffic in the south end of the island, the development in/around Ubud, the beach hawkers. Wow, not fair…because really, Bali is magical. Why? Well, it’s incredibly beautiful. The archtypical terraced rice paddies are breathtaking. My pictures all fall very, very short of how lovely […]


Excuse me while I get busy

The feedback to last week’s post about topics was beyond my expectation. Besides illuminating really clear interest in particular areas, there were a bunch of new ideas, and some interesting questions on subjects I had in mind. Thank you! First up is seasickness, which by far had the most requests for more detail. Boatschooling, power […]


Well, what do you want to know about?

So, we’re still kicking around Lovina. I’d really like to get moving on to Kalimantan / Borneo, but honestly? It’s fine. Not just because of the easy access to yummy little restaurants (goat sate, delicious, trust me!). Not just because we have caught up on so many little projects around here. After a bunch of […]


Lovina: juggling hawkers while we play the waiting game

Gili Air to Lovina was a pleasant day trip. Just point the boat towards Gunung Agung, and go! We were cheated by the wind and had to motor, again, although since seasonal breezes are now generally from behind us we had really hoped to sail. But we needed to get there to renew our visas […]


Lazy days on Gili Air

The three “Gili” islands off the NW corner of Lombok are a big change from the traffic and noise of south Bali: there are no motorized vehicles, only pony carts and bicycles to get around. We were really ready for the slower pace after having to sit in hot traffic to get anywhere on Bali… […]


Furthur adventures of “The Happy Family”

There’s only one cruiser that we can say we have shared the waters with in Mexico, South Pacific islands, Australia, *and* Asia- Brian Calvert, on the M/V Further. Brian has seen our kids grow up afloat like few other cruisers have, so it was a much anticipated rendezvous when we saw him again in Bali. […]

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