Archive | February, 2013


Raja Ampat: lingering with friends

I suppose if we were determined to tick the boxes of “things you are supposed to see and do” in Raja Ampat, we would have left our teacup anchorage after another day. But it’s friends who make a place memorable, and we are having too much fun with our friends on Nalukai and Muscat to […]


Raja Ampat: now THAT’S what we came for

It happens. Our next anchorage, which becomes referred to as “the teacup” for it’s wee size and general shape, is such a slice of heaven that we decide to stay for days and days. We scout it out, then lure Nalukai and Muscat to our position. It’s not too difficult. Nalukai anchors all the way […]


Nudging north in Raja Ampat

Getting ourselves out of Sorong (finally). We have almost a month to play in Raja Ampat, which sounds like a lot, but we already know it’s going to be impossible to see as much as we would like. So every day we don’t leave Sorong is a day we don’t spend in the beautiful islands. […]


Too long in Sorong

Sorong is a necessary evil. OK, not evil, but it’s not a terribly interesting place- yet it’s on the edge of the very spectacular Raja Ampat, which we can’t wait to get into. But we have to stop here for a few reasons. First, there are required passes for tourists in Raja Ampat, which are […]


Oh FAD it! Or, the SE Asian marine obstacle course

There’s a special boater’s hell in Southeast Asia in the FAD minefields. FADs, or Fish Aggregating Devices, range from something just larger than a bathtub to football field sized platforms with living quarters on top. This is the big daddy of fishing platforms- look for the guys on top for scale. Photo by sv Nalukai. […]


Playing Tourist in Biak

We go to the market in the morning look for a ‘bemo’ (the minivan/bus system that operates as public transportation all over Indonesia). The public market is a de facto bus terminal, and we’re quickly able to secure a car and driver for the day. It’s nice to be in a country where this is […]


Chasing fuel in Biak

Although we’ve made most of the westing that stretched ahead of us just a couple of months ago, there’s still a good distance to get across the rest of the top of Papua- so after just a few days in the Padaidos we move on. Conditions are fair, which means we still have to motor, but at […]


Keeping the peace

This month’s raft-up topic looks into relationships on board and asks the question: how do you make a relationship work on board? Exhibit A: the happy couple… or are they?! Among the more common questions we get asked by non-cruisers is how we manage to live together in such a small space. At 47 feet, […]


Taking a break in the Padaidos

Once the hook is set in our little spot at Mios Manggwandi, there’s little we’d like to do more than have a nice long nap. When we left Jayapura for all we knew we’d be sleeping off some island anchorage that night- not continuing through three nights of passagemaking! But the right thing to do […]


Sharing our experiences: Totem’s IWAC interview

The same month that we were in the throes of final preparation to depart from Mexico for the Marquesas, a very cool undertaking called “The Interview with a Cruiser Project” was started up. This brainchild of cruiser Livia (of SV Estrellita 5.10b) began as a way to organize the responses of experienced cruisers to a series of […]

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