Archive | May, 2010

We’re in the Tuamotus!

Totem is now in Makemo, in the Tuamotus. Yesterday's snorkeling adventure was nothing short of epic.. better clarity and more fish than we could ever have imagined. Listening to the girls squealing through their snorkels wasn't something we'll soon forget! Our radio is still not working (%&*$#@) and our internet access is limited, so the […]


Birthday Season

We recently had birthday season on Totem: all three of the children’s birthdays fall within a two-week span. It was been really fun to have lots of other kids boats around to share their special days. Each child is granted provisional king/queen for a day status on their birthday . What will we eat? What […]


Morning hike into Hatiheiu

Baguettes cravings called, so it was time to hike back to Hatiheiu again. The round trip is about 3 hours: following switchbacks straight up to a ridge, then straight back down again into the next bay. As often is the case, the journey was the adventure. We passed quite a few of the diminutive Marquesan […]


Field trip into Hatiheiu

After growing fat and sassy for several days on the Anaho beach, I craved exercise and hiked with Anne (Oso) over the ridge to the town on the other side. We scouted the magazin (general store), scared off a few goats from the main thoroughfare, and wandered through the tiki statues at the waterfront. The […]


Why rush through paradise? Anaho Bay

I am sharing my morning tea in the cockpit with a sea turtle, who pokes his head up now and again (making sure I haven’t moved?). A few spotted rays cruise by the boat as the sun finally peeks over the top of the mountains. * quick callout to Mum who has her birthday today! […]



This past week, we’ve shared an anchorage with manta rays. These gentle giants have wingspans averaging around seven feet. Filter feeders without teeth, they swoop in graceful arcs, hoovering up the rich micro/macroscopic marine life that fills the water right now. We’ve been out to swim with them on a number of days. I cannot […]

Questions about the passage

Some few people we aren't related to who read this blog are prospective Pacific passage makers, and have emailed a few questions about the passage. What do you want to know that we left out? Post your question to the comments or send a note to us at sail (at) sv-totem (dot) com, and eventually […]

Trouble in paradise

One of the defining looks to these steep, rugged islands are the clouds which seem stuck on top, parked on top and obscuring the peaks. There were also clouds of gray and white creeping up the hillsides above Atouna- but these looked different. Was it fog? Was it smoke, sent up from burning the island’s […]

Oh, the baguettes…oh, the fruit…

Anyone who knows me, knows I’m pretty food obsessed…although there is still much to learn and experience, my first impressions here are centered around things to eat. A culinary introduction to the Marquesas is all about the fruit and baguettes. I wondered how hard it would be to break my tortilla habit from Mexico, but […]

Water, water, everywhere: the land version

Do you know how good it feels to take an unlimited shower, letting water just cascade over you for as long as you wish? Right…. so you probably do, and I can remember it, but let me tell you- it’s not a common experience for most cruisers. Our boats carry limited water and even with […]

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