Tag Archives | fauna

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Cruising Namibia’s Skeleton Coast

It’s only a couple of hundred miles from Lüderitz to Walvis Bay, but we broke the trip up to soak in some of the remote landscape. What started out cool and gray warmed up to… cool and sunny. At least it was warm enough to take off foulies, which Jamie and I wore even on […]

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Passage report: Cape Town to Lüderitz, Namibia

Totem’s anchor dropped late in the day in Lüderitz, the southern of Namibia’s two ports, three days after leaving Simon’s Town. Weather and boat readiness finally cooperated to help us extract from the magnetic pull of beautiful Cape Town. Even confident I will find the next port fascinating, it’s hard to leave a place where we’ve […]

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I love South Africanisms!

It started during our first road trip: picking up on sayings, food, treats and more that stood out to us as uniquely South African. Our expat family in Jo’burg helped further our education: a host of uniquely South African sounds, sights, tastes, and more. Animals If there’s one thing everyone knows about South Africa before […]

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Land cruising in Africa

We dreamed about the iconic wildlife we’d have the chance to see in South Africa. But when we sketched out our plans to sail across the Indian Ocean, seeing them for ourselves in the vast parklands of South Africa felt dubious. Safari prices, at first blush, were well out of our reach. We’d be there […]

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Walking on the wild side: Chagos archipelago

Anchored at the east end of Salomon atoll, Totem floats in clear water that is swimming-pool turquoise, her hull shadow sharply outlined on the sand below. On shore, coconuts sprout where they wash up with the tide, building a picket fence of young palm trees along the high water line.  It’s been nearly five decades since humans […]

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