Archive | destinations

6 countryside

South Africa in hindsight

South Africa leaves an indelible impression. During our three month stay we fell in love with it for a multitude of reasons, but frequently felt uncomfortable. The answer I came up with, again and again, when asked by locals how we like it: “South Africa is a beautiful, complicated place.” Very complicated. In the “pro” […]

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Ascension Island: remote South Atlantic

Uninhabited before it was encountered by Portuguese sailors in the 1500s, Ascension’s lonely position in the middle of, well, more or less nowhere in the South Atlantic made it a place of strategic importance since. In the age of commerce under sail, it was a place to water up (once a source was found) and […]

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St Helena for cruisers

On one hand, St Helena is an obvious choice for boats heading NW from Cape Town: it’s along the path of a logical route, whether you are pointing to Brazil or to the Caribbean. So it’s surprising that quite a few of the boats passing through during our two week stay were doing just that: […]

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Distinctively St Helena

St Helena is unique in many ways, and many we’ve been able to experience firsthand during our week so far – coupled with the sincere friendliness of everyone we’ve met, it’s going to be a hard place to leave. I’ve confessed to falling in love a little with every destination, but this is different: I’m […]

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Exploring St Helena

St Helena is exceptionally isolated. The nearest point on Africa – Angola – is about a thousand miles away. Brazil is nearly 2,000. There weren’t any humans here in 1502 when Portuguese were first reported to visit. Arriving by boat, the steep rock face of the cliffs may not seem inviting, but for hundreds of […]

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Cruising Namibia’s Skeleton Coast

It’s only a couple of hundred miles from Lüderitz to Walvis Bay, but we broke the trip up to soak in some of the remote landscape. What started out cool and gray warmed up to… cool and sunny. At least it was warm enough to take off foulies, which Jamie and I wore even on […]

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Chasing ghosts in the Namib desert

The obligatory tourist stop while in Lüderitz isn’t actually touristy at all: it’s a ghost town called Kolmanskop, a 15 minute drive into the desert. It seemed as though only a couple of dozen people besides ourselves visited over the course of a morning. We started with a tour to get context and history before […]

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A week in Luderitz, Namibia

The weather always wins: we planned on just a couple of days in Lüderitz. We didn’t want to make Ty, crew arriving in the next port north- Walvis Bay- sitting around waiting for us to get there. But we also wanted favorable conditions, and ended up Lüderitz for nearly a week. We spent a couple of […]

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Last days in South Africa

Simon’s Town was our base for a month to power through pre-Atlantic preparations. There were rounds of maintenance catch-up, some new projects, and a few repairs. And then…there was a lot of fun, making memories with friends. Yes, we’re in Namibia now…but I want to hang onto these memories here! The Cape Town area is a […]

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Passage prep: getting ready to depart South Africa

As our time in South Africa draws to a close, we’re focused on preparing for the big miles ahead to cross the Atlantic. Although I felt like we spent a lot of last year preparing for passages, given the significant legs crossing the Indian Ocean, there’s a lot to inspect, and re-inspect. This is the […]

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