Archive | February, 2014


Cruising costs, routine maintenance, and the 10% (15%, 20%) rule

What does it cost to go cruising? Most of these discussions focus on month to month living expenses. Do you eat out in restaurants or stick to the boat? Do you stay in marinas or anchor out? Do you send out your laundry or wash it in a bucket? What’s easy to miss in the […]


What does it take to be an adventurous family?

We met the most fascinating cruiser recently. Erik and his family cruised through less traveled corners of the eastern Mediterranean and north Africa.  They left the US numbering seven, and returned numbering eight. The Hemingways had amazing experiences and visited unusual places that I’m so interested to share with our family- Senegal! Morocco! Israel! In […]


Leaving with a piece of Thailand

On our last night in Thailand, we had dinner aboard Love Song with friends we first met five years ago in Mexico. A boat coming into the anchorage earlier had caught a couple of tuna, and shared the bounty. Kathy made a delicious poisson cru, a dish with popular variations all over the South Pacific […]


Bad things come in threes, right?

It was a trio of unfortunate events on a day that began with a beautiful sail, after a day anchored off another stunning Thai island. Any one of these three could ruin your day, and even two out of three could cause serious problems. We managed to luck out with all three. Autopilot failed. Inconvenient, […]


Would you eat insects?

We all process cultures in different ways and through different filters. One of my favorites is food, and in that respect, Thailand is truly a feast: delicious cuisine that is often much more complex than it appears. Even the Thai equivalent of fast food is a treat. A few nights ago, we trucked out to […]


DIY on board: making instead of buying

There are a host of reasons why it makes sense for cruisers to make things that are normally purchased in a store. The most obvious is that you might be out in the middle of a big piece of water, double reefed under blue skies- but no option for a store. Or maybe you’ve made […]


Listen up: your boat is talking to you

It was not one of our sunnier mornings. Oh, the sun was up and blazing, but the utter lack of sleep the night before- when Totem sat beam onto a swell rolling in over a long stretch of the Indian Ocean- left us feeling a little dim. Help was surely on the way, I thought, […]


Cruising: vacation vs lifestyle

Sometimes cruising really is exactly the way people with landlocked lives and snowy driveways imagine it to be. A morning of exploring a new bay, an afternoon of watching the sun climb across the sky from a hammock, and cocktails at sunset- with ample breaks for entertainment between those consuming activities. returning to the beach […]


Confessions of a reef snob

In than forty minutes of water time at Richelieu rock, we saw more intense marine life than we have seen anywhere in Thailand by a wide margin. Local fishermen knew all about this gold mine of fish, and helped Jacques Cousteau discover be the last person to “find” it- he’s said to have popularized the spot for […]


Richelieu rock: a spark of spectacular marine life

Richelieu rock is an oasis in the desert of overfishing that is Southeast Asia. This pinnacle sits near the southern end of the Mergui archipelago, climbing around 130 feet from the shallow waters  of the Andaman sea about twenty miles off from the coast of Thailand. It was time to wind back to the mainland […]

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