I’m afraid I may have been complaining about Bali too much. The traffic in the south end of the island, the development in/around Ubud, the beach hawkers. Wow, not fair…because really, Bali is magical. Why?
There is a mystic blend of religion in everyday life. Common daily rituals are imbued with ceremony. There are shrines and temples in every direction you look, and in all sizes. Every home, business, and group of rice paddies has a shrine placed at the ‘kaja’ corner (the one that’s closest to the big volcano, Guning Agung). Every village has three temples, because different kinds of rituals and offerings are dedicated at different kinds of temples.
Walk around early in the morning, and you’ll see women (because it is almost always women) in selendangs (sashes) walking around with trays of offerings to place at key locations: at entrances, in the kaja corner, at intersections (junctures where good and evil may meet), at a place where they’ll be working.