Archive | April, 2013


Adopted again, and taught about Spice

The kindness of strangers is incredible. Once again we find ourselves in gratitude for the great friendliness and hospitality of Indonesian families who have welcomed us as honored guests, and wondered what we ever did to deserve such gracious treatment. We met Ryan and Nini because their family home at the foot of Gunung Api, […]


Exploring the Banda islands

There’s still a bit of a side roll slapping Totem around when we head out to Banda, but it’s manageable and we’ve got a bit of moonlight to help us along. The rich history of these islands have made them one of our most anticipated stops in Indonesia. As they fade into view in the […]


The boat as a platform for entertainment

Good weather is elusive, and we’re not interested in a bash to the Bandas, so a week passes in Saparua. With the extra time, perhaps it’s not too surprising that we made a few friends ashore. Twelve year old Jundri was the first: he and his friend Onget paddled out to Totem on a raft […]


Waiting for weather in Kota Saparua

We had a mostly grey week of watching for weather to sail down to the Banda islands. The anchorage off the main town was much more flat and secure, so we had a comfortable place to wait and felt in no hurry. Saturday is the big market day. Best to go early! I was hoping […]


It’s all your point of view

We nestled into the south harbor of Saparua, right in front of an imposing fort. Fort Duurstede was built by the Dutch in the 1670s. The ruins were interesting, but other than a guest book and a guy collecting fees there was little to illuminate us about what we saw. We can speculate about the […]

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