Archive | April, 2013


Labuan Bajo: back in tourist country

We are working our way toward Labuan Bajo, the town at the west end of Flores. There, for the first time in many months, we’ve converged with the popular tourist track. Labuan Bajo is crowded with shops and restaurants geared towards visitors, from well-heeled adventurous souls to shaggy backpackers. The lure is the adjacent Komodo […]


The lovely islands of Riung

Picking our way between reefs into Riung offered plenty of excitement for Jamie, Hyo and me but was just another day underway for Siobhan. She crashed for a cockpit nap as we wandered through the pretty string of islands that make up a park near the town of Riung. We decide to find a spot […]


Westbound on Flores

It takes five painful days for our visas to be extended in Maumere. With every night we spend in the rolly anchorage, I get a little more cranky – it’s really hard to get a good nights’ sleep, and the constant motion is a strain. I’ll take sailing through the big, (long period!) ocean swells […]


Portraits from the market

One of the most enjoyable ways for me to get in tune with a local community is to visit the public market. Markets are hubs of life: you see what people eat, what they wear, how they interact. Oh, and it’s a good place to pick up fresh provisions- yes, that too. I steal away […]


The beautiful textiles of Flores island

Indonesia has a rich variety of textiles produced and used. Just as the archipelago is a kaleidoscope of cultures, the variation in textiles produced (and how they are used) varies significantly from one island or region to another. The technique known as ikat (originally a Javanese word, which means tied, or knotted) is produced with […]


Playing tourist around Maumere

There’s a deadline for us to get to Maumere and submit our passports to Immigration for a visa extension, so while we could happily linger at Pulau Hoga it’s time to head south. It’s a bumpy ride for a couple of days. I’m just a little grumpy because it makes life a little more challenging. […]


Visiting a Bajo (Bajau) village

The first visitor to Totem in Hoga, Pondang, picked Jamie up for a spearfishing jaunt on our second morning there. Motoring his long boat to the outside of the conservation areas, they worked with fisherman netting from their small boats. Jamie came back with tales of these efficient fishermen, who it turns out belong to […]


Wakatobi: beautiful water, troubled water

We’ve been hearing for a while about the impressive underwater life in the Wakatobi region (cruiser types, this is probably spelled Wakatohi on your charts, a strange error since it’s the acronym built from the first two letters of the names of the four islands that make up the group). It seems to be talked […]


Friends from afar

We are watching weather the whole time we’re in Banda, because our dear friend Hyo is coming to meet us. But she’ll be meeting us at an island on the other side of the Banda Sea, and we have a passage of several days to get there. Luck is with us and we arrive in […]


Banda: the memories that stick

Jubilant Mairen A big part of the reason we are out on this crazy adventure as a family is because Jamie and I believe it is a great way for our children to grow up, to appreciate the world around them and our place within it. But we wonder what memories will stand out for […]

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