We're pushing the answer to that question this week. We left the anchorage near the village in Makemo and beat for the southeast corner; a big SE breeze picked up and the fetch down the long atoll created wind waves that made the anchorage very uncomfortable. This also gave us our first very challenging lesson in coral head anchoring… it is almost impossible not to get a little tangled.
Down at the other end, the ride was much more comfortable- and the blues were out of this world. We thought we'd seen the brightest turquoise, the clearest sapphire… well, we'd seen nothing yet! At the far end of the atoll, the water shallows to 20' for a long stretch into the beach. Dotted with coral heads, it's once again like floating in a big aquarium. Impossible as it sounds, it just keeps getting better.
We hadn't planned to eat any reef fish, but every local we asked in town said there was no ciguatera in the atoll, so Jamie and Chris (s/v Stray Kitty) went on a fish hunt. Every day, they brought back beautiful fat fish that we tried every way: grilled, pan fried, squeezed with lime…
Today, we're departing Makemo and headed for Fakarava. This overnight trip will get us out of the pass here at slack, and put our arrival at Fakarava with, in all probability, a few hours before slack- nice comfort zone.
There are a few new pictures on Flickr- we are having computer troubles now (what next?!) and hopefully didn't lose the rest.