The best apps for cruising- part II

What apps do cruisers actually use on their ipad / android to make life easier, safer, or more fun? The last post covered navigation, weather, and other apps for sailing. This post is about everything else that we find useful to our cruising life. And despite the title, the objective here isn’t actually to list […]

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The best apps for cruising

What are the best apps for sailing? What apps do cruisers actually use on their ipad / android to make life easier, safer, or more fun? There are a lot of “best apps for sailing” type lists out there (I just looked. Trust me). Honestly? The first thing that strikes me after scanning a few […]

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What I love about cruising Seychelles

Seychelles is Totem’s introduction to cruising in Africa. AFRICA! It’s mind-blowing to our family, and exciting after lingering a couple of years in Asia to be surrounded by such different culture, history, sights, tastes and sounds. [Above: Seychellois boy watching his president in a motorcade through The People’s Stadium, where we watched independence day festivities.] Cruising Seychelles […]

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The Cruising Cartoonist: (sea) monkeying around

“How do you earn money while you’re cruising?” is one of the top ten questions I think I get about this life, and my friend Sarah has by FAR the coolest answer: she’s a cartoonist and can work online from anywhere that has internet, keeping her family happily on the move in their nomadic life. I’m a big fan […]

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The imperfect passage

Sailing west from the middle (literally) of the Indian Ocean, to the Seychelles islands just off Africa: circumnavigate, and this may the best passage you make. “Near perfect sailing conditions have been encountered by boats making this passage in May and June” crows Jimmy Cornell’s World Cruising Routes. Spectacular! We’re IN! Slow passages in light […]

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Living differently in Salomon Atoll

No question about it, cruisers live differently, especially when we’re off the grid for an extended time…possibly under a rainbow. But my tongue in cheek post about just HOW differently lacked photos, coming as it did from our sat phone. Here’s a peek into those differences, as we lived them on Chagos during the last month. Groceries It’s […]

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Highlights from 2,500 days of cruising

Today marks the 2,500th day since we sailed Totem out of Puget Sound; soon we’ll start our eighth year as cruisers. It still feels amazing, and I still pinch myself to make sure it’s not a dream. There are plenty of days that aren’t all sunshine or rainbows (like much of this last passage, which was a wet, boisterous, […]

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Walking on the wild side: Chagos archipelago

Anchored at the east end of Salomon atoll, Totem floats in clear water that is swimming-pool turquoise, her hull shadow sharply outlined on the sand below. On shore, coconuts sprout where they wash up with the tide, building a picket fence of young palm trees along the high water line.  It’s been nearly five decades since humans […]

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The easy way to take better cruising pictures

It’s pretty common knowledge among cruisers that you should have polarized sunglasses. They reduce reflected light from the water, and by allowing the wearer to see into the water (instead of a bright glare), making them valuable safety aids for navigating. When I think about the coral heads we’ve dodged in lagoons the last few […]

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Chagos archipelago-better than a soap opera

Cruisers love to love Chagos. They rhapsodize about the picturesque islands, amazing underwater life, and self-sufficient living. They wonder how they’’ll manage for a month without being bored out of their skulls, then wake up months later and reluctantly leave only because they’’re running out of supplies (well, back when you actually could stay that […]