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Facing up to health care

Keeping up with routine health care needs isn’t a problem when cruising. It’s rare to be in a place where quality care cannot be found, or reached quickly should an emergency arise. In Puerto Rico we played catch up with dentist and dermatology checkups. We arrived in Puerto Rico expecting to hop-skip-jump across the south […]

boy on radio

VHF radio etiquette

“Thanks for the wake, @$$%*#!”  Unpleasant to imagine, unpleasant to hear, and rude on all sides. We haven’t heard that since leaving the USA and I don’t miss this aspect of many boaters in close proximity plus a dose of …well, of whatever it is that prompts throwing a wake or respond like that! They […]

Off Samana on VHF with Akira

AIS and radar from the hurricane season stragglers

  Sunrise tinted the margins of Puerto Rico’s rugged profile with a warm glow. Making landfall on the west coast after a week of bumpy, on-again / off-again passage making from the Bahamas was a relief. Totem and her crew are the stragglers of southbound boats for hurricane season, long since expected to have the […]

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Bahamas lookback II: falling short

Three months of cruising the Bahamas left many impressions. After too much time on the mainland, escaping east across the Gulf Stream felt like freedom: a refreshing change in outlook, a new place to sink into and explore – one that several circumnavigators we respect claimed among their favorites. There’s a lot to love about these […]

Girls hiking in the Bahamas

Cruising the Bahamas: beauty at our back door

Hard won miles to windward from the cerulean blue of our last Bahamian anchorage, some perspective on our months in the islands is sinking in. I went in with a mixed bag of expectations: friends who have sailed around the world claim it’s among the best cruising to be had (don’t we all love our […]

downwind offshore ocean sailing sailboat

Safety on board: preventer setup on Totem

Boom preventer. Boom brake. Whatever you do, whatever you call it, having a way to prevent or dampen the force of the boom to prevent accidents while sailing deep downwind is important. A lot of cruising IS downwind, so thinking through a smart setup is critical! I’ll never forget learning about a boat some miles […]

monkey bread

Easy bread to feed a hungry crew

A well-fed crew is a happy crew: this is no secret. Food is a love language for many, myself included. Feeding people, seeing their pleasure in something I’ve made, makes me so happy. I dug the minor challenge to create a yummy and totally gluten free dinner from our dwindling provisions for friends last week […]

sailboat in clear blue water

Beautiful everyday Bahamas

Totem floats in water so crystalline she almost looks suspended in air; her shadow paints a dark splotch on the sand below. One anchorage after another, the incredible water of the Bahamas is the stuff of magazine covers that were surely photoshopped (maybe not, after all!); so beautiful it defies belief. High clouds chasing the horizon […]

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Introducing Totem merchandise

A little while back, two things happened nearly simultaneously. Friends and readers noticed that our friend Brian wore a Totem t-shirt in the opening sequence of videos in his popular YouTube channel, SV Delos. Concurrently, I got an email from Aurelia at 3 Tees, an eco-conscious screen printing company, reaching out to ask if we’d be […]

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Archetypical Bahamas, sort of

Cruising boats flow back to the US for hurricane season this time of year. Our path is counter-current thanks to our seasonally late departure from Florida and slow pace through the Bahamas. It’s less than 300 miles to Florida from where Totem lies at anchor near George Town; more than 1,100 nm of sailing stand […]

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